Cockatoo Care Guide

Cockatoos are crested parrots from Australia and nearby islands, and among the most affectionate and most demanding birds kept as pets. VCA compares owning one to having a small child for life. Cockatoos scream when left alone, chew furniture and walls, and shed fine powder that spreads through the house. They suit experienced keepers with no young children, tolerant neighbours, and the time to give a cockatoo structure as well as cuddles.

Care requirements

Need	What to provide
Enclosure	Small species at least 2 × 3 × 4 ft (60 × 91 × 122 cm). Large species at least 4 × 4 × 4 ft (122 × 122 × 122 cm). Plus at least 6 hours a day out of the cage (VCA; RSPCA)
Temperature	Within about 54–79°F (12–26°C), away from radiators, stoves and draughts (RSPCA)
Humidity	Daily misting or a shower helps control powder down. A HEPA air filter in the room helps too (VCA)
Lighting	Flicker-free bird UVA/UVB lamp run for natural daylight length, with shaded perches (RSPCA)
Diet	About 75–80% pellets, with fresh vegetables daily and fruit, seed or nuts only as treats (VCA)
Lifespan	25–45 years; 70–80 possible in larger species (VCA)
Social needs	Heavy, scheduled human contact. Never cage two together; males can badly injure mates (RSPCA)
Legal notes	No common restrictions; check local rules.

Which cockatoo?

VCA summarises the commonly kept species like this:

Species	Size	What to expect
Moluccan (salmon-crested)	Large	Sweet but very loud. Attaches to one or two people and may pluck if it doesn’t get its way
Greater sulphur-crested	Large	Very energetic. Needs a fair amount of training to settle as a pet
Umbrella	Medium–large	The “Velcro bird”: wants to be held, and less high-strung than others
Rose-breasted (galah)	Medium	Usually sweet, with a softer voice
Goffin’s, lesser sulphur-crested, citron-crested	Small	High-strung and very active

Hormones, cuddling and boundaries

The habit that causes most trouble is how people touch them. VCA warns owners to stroke only a cockatoo’s head. Stroking the body can stimulate the bird sexually and frustrate it. A cockatoo bonded this way can become possessive and aggressive, and may start plucking its feathers.

VCA’s approach is to treat a cockatoo like a toddler:

• A daily schedule. Give attention at predictable times so the bird learns when it is coming and stops screaming for it.
• Independent play. Teach the bird to entertain itself in the cage with several different toys and chewable foods. VCA calls this crucial, especially after sexual maturity.
• Foraging for food. It fills the hours a wild cockatoo would spend searching for food.
• Chewing material. Keep up a constant supply of safe wood and cardboard. Otherwise furniture, door frames and walls become the toys.

The RSPCA’s six-hour daily minimum outside the cage applies too. Time out should be active, not hours spent being petted on a lap.

Powder down and allergies

Cockatoos produce a lot of feather dust, or powder down. VCA doesn’t recommend them for people with airborne allergies. Daily misting with water or showering the bird reduces how much powder spreads, and many owners run a HEPA filter in the bird’s room. Keep this in mind if anyone in the house has asthma.

PBFD: test before you buy

Psittacine beak and feather disease (PBFD) was first described in Australian cockatoos in the early 1970s, and VCA notes it mainly affects parrots from Africa and Australasia. Feathers grow stunted, clubbed or pinched, and in white cockatoos the beak becomes long, flaky or shiny and breaks easily. There is no treatment, and most birds die of secondary infections within months to years.

The virus is shed in droppings, crop secretions and feather dust, and can travel on clothing. VCA recommends a blood test or oral swab for every new bird. Test both the newcomer and any resident parrots before they meet. A bird can look normal for a long time before signs appear.

Five things new cockatoo owners get wrong

• Petting the back and under the wings. This triggers hormonal behaviour, aggression and plucking (VCA).
• Unlimited attention at first, then less later. A cockatoo given constant contact early, with no schedule, screams when that contact drops (VCA).
• Pairing two cockatoos in one cage or a small aviary. The RSPCA warns that male cockatoos can be extremely aggressive to their mate, and may severely injure or kill her, especially hand-reared males.
• Feeding mostly sunflower seed and peanuts. These are high in fat and low in calcium and vitamin A. VCA links this to high cholesterol and atherosclerosis in cockatoos.
• Buying one for a home with toddlers. VCA says their jumpy nature and strong bite make them unsuitable for families with young children.

Avoid

• Avocado and onion (VCA).
• Iceberg lettuce and celery. They are mostly water (VCA).
• Grit and gravel. These cause gut blockages (VCA).
• Wood, wicker or bamboo cages and plastic perches. Cockatoos chew through them and can swallow the splinters (VCA).
• Toys with snaps, clasps, open chain links or chewable rubber (VCA).
• Ceiling fans running and windows uncovered during flying time (RSPCA).
• Non-stick (PTFE) cookware, smoke and aerosols near the bird. Bird lungs are highly sensitive to airborne toxins. Overheated PTFE gives off fumes that can kill a bird quickly (VCA).