Rabbit Care Guide

Domestic rabbits are grazing prey animals. Their teeth never stop growing, their gut depends on a steady flow of fibre, and they suffer when kept without another rabbit. They suit owners who can commit for a decade or more, give them far more space than a pet-shop hutch, and budget for vaccinations, neutering and yearly vet visits.

Care requirements

Need	What to provide
Enclosure	At least 9 ft 10 in × 6 ft 7 in × 3 ft 3 in (3 × 2 × 1 m) for a pair. It must be one continuous space they can use at all times, with the sleeping area inside it (RWAF)
Temperature	50–68°F (10–20°C). Rabbits cope with cold better than with heat (RSPCA)
Humidity	Dry, damp-proof, draught-proof and well ventilated. Cold combined with wet can be fatal (RSPCA)
Lighting	Natural day length. If you bring them indoors, extend the evening light gradually and give them a dark sleeping area (RSPCA)
Diet	About 85% hay or grass, 10% leafy greens, 5% pellets or nuggets, plus fresh water at all times (RSPCA)
Lifespan	Typically 8–12 years, and some live longer (RSPCA)
Social needs	At least one friendly, compatible rabbit. A neutered male with a neutered female is a good combination (RSPCA; RWAF)
Legal notes	Banned as pets in Queensland, Australia: a restricted invasive animal under the Biosecurity Act 2014, with permits only for research, public display, magic acts and circuses (Business Queensland). Elsewhere, no common restrictions; check local rules.

Space: why a hutch is not a home

The RWAF’s 3 × 2 m footprint exists so that rabbits can run, not just take a few hops. The 3 m (9 ft 10 in) length is the part people most often skip. Floor area alone can mislead. An 8 × 8 ft pen gives 64 sq ft but has no 3 m run, so the RWAF says it does not meet the guideline. The sleeping quarters inside that footprint should be at least 6 × 2 × 2 ft (1.8 × 0.6 × 0.6 m). The RWAF is clear that a hutch should never be a rabbit’s only or main accommodation.

“Permanent access” matters as much as size. The RWAF says the full 3 × 2 × 1 m must be available at all times, not just for a few hours a day. The same minimum applies indoors and outdoors. It also applies to a single rabbit, so being short of room is not a reason to keep only one. A converted garden shed with an enclosure attached is one way the RWAF suggests reaching it. Tunnels and connector pipes add enrichment but don’t count toward the footprint.

Feeding by the 85/10/5 rule

• Hay and grass (85%): unlimited, sweet-smelling and dust-free. As a daily guide, the RSPCA suggests a bundle of hay about as big as the rabbit. Chewing hay wears down teeth that grow continuously, and the fibre keeps the gut moving.
• Leafy greens (10%): a large handful of washed greens, herbs and weeds each day, rotated. Introduce new ones gradually. The RSPCA lists spinach, cabbage and celery as occasional-only.
• Pellets or nuggets (5%): about 0.4 oz per lb (25 g per kg) of body weight per day for a healthy adult, which is roughly an egg cup for an average rabbit. Measure it out rather than topping up the bowl, or the rabbit may fill up on pellets and eat less hay.
• Carrots and fruit are treats, not staples. Carrots are high in sugar. Feed the leafy tops instead.

Rabbits also produce soft droppings called caecotrophs, which they eat straight from their bottom. This is a normal and essential part of their diet.

Gut stasis: the emergency to know

GI stasis is when the digestive system slows or stops, and the gut bacteria tip out of balance. The RSPCA links it to a low-fibre diet, stress, dehydration, pain from other illnesses such as dental disease, and blockages. Left untreated, it can become life-threatening quickly. If you see any of these signs, take the rabbit to a vet the same day:

• Smaller droppings, fewer droppings or none at all
• Loss of appetite
• A bloated stomach that feels hard, or excessive gas
• Sitting hunched or refusing to move

Prevention is mostly diet. Unlimited hay, measured pellets, few sugary treats and annual dental checks deal with the most common triggers. Check every day that each rabbit is eating and passing plenty of dry, round droppings.

Vaccination and neutering

In the UK, the RSPCA lists vaccines against myxomatosis, Rabbit (Viral) Haemorrhagic Disease (RVHD) and RVHD2. Your vet will set how often boosters are needed.

In the US, Merck describes the RHDV2 vaccine as the one routine vaccine recommended for pet rabbits. It is usually given as two doses 3 weeks apart, then a yearly booster. It matters most for rabbits that go outdoors where wild rabbits may be, or that meet other pet rabbits.

Neutering is part of routine care, not an optional extra. Merck calls cancer of the uterus common and often fatal in unspayed rabbits over 3 years old. The RSPCA advises neutering both rabbits in a pair to reduce fighting, urine spraying and accidental litters. Males can stay fertile for up to six weeks after surgery.

Five things new rabbit owners get wrong

• Buying one rabbit “to bond with you”. The RSPCA says rabbits can develop abnormal behaviours when kept alone. Human attention doesn’t replace a rabbit partner.
• Putting two rabbits together on day one. Badly managed introductions cause injuries and can put a rabbit off other rabbits for good. Introduce them gradually, in a neutral space, after both are neutered.
• Feeding a muesli mix. Rabbits pick out the sugary pieces and leave the fibre. The RSPCA lists muesli-style mixes among foods to avoid.
• Missing a quiet rabbit. Prey animals hide pain. A rabbit that is quieter than usual or has stopped eating is highly likely to be ill.
• Ignoring a dirty rear end in summer. Flies lay eggs in soiled fur and the maggots eat flesh. The RSPCA calls flystrike often fatal and advises checking the rear end twice a day in warm weather.

Avoid

• Muesli-style mixes, cereals, chocolate, meat, eggs and dairy
• Avocado, onions, leeks, garlic, broad beans and kidney beans
• Iceberg lettuce, and fruit seeds and pits, including apple pips
• Lawnmower clippings, which the RSPCA warns can make rabbits ill
• Garden plants such as bluebells, foxgloves, holly and tulips
• Wire or barred floors, which can cause sore feet and hocks (pododermatitis)
• Housing a rabbit with guinea pigs or rats