Leopard Gecko Care Guide

The leopard gecko (Eublepharis macularius) is a ground-dwelling gecko from the dry, rocky scrub of Pakistan and Afghanistan that grows to about 10 in (25 cm) and can live up to 20 years. Because it is active at dawn and dusk, eats only live insects and warms itself through its belly, it needs only a modest vivarium, dry air and low-level UVB. It suits a first-time reptile keeper who is comfortable keeping crickets in the house.

Care requirements

Need	What to provide
Enclosure	Minimum 24 × 16 × 12 in (60 × 40 × 30 cm, L × H × D) for one adult, larger if possible (RSPCA). Hobbyist guidance is bigger: at least 36 × 18 × 18 in (90 × 45 × 45 cm, about 50 gal), ideally 48 × 24 × 24 in (120 × 60 × 60 cm) (ReptiFiles)
Temperature	Basking zone 82–86°F (28–30°C), cool end 75–79°F (24–26°C). Heat off at night unless the room drops below 64°F (18°C). Thermostat on every heat source (RSPCA)
Humidity	Dry: 30–40% at the cool end (RSPCA), or 20–30% per MSD, plus one humid hide (RSPCA; MSD)
Lighting	2–5% UVB tube over one-third to half the length at the warm end. UVI 0.7 at the basking spot down to 0 in shade, 12 hours on, 12 off (RSPCA)
Diet	Insects only: crickets, calciworms, locusts and roaches no bigger than the gecko’s head, gut-loaded and dusted, plus a dish of plain calcium (RSPCA; VCA)
Lifespan	10–15 years with good care (VCA), up to 20 (RSPCA)
Social needs	Alone. They don’t need company and can be aggressive; males are territorial (RSPCA; VCA)
Legal notes	No common restrictions; check local rules.

Belly heat and the basking stone

Leopard geckos spend the hot part of the day under rocks and warm themselves through contact. The RSPCA recommends a guarded 60–100 W ceramic or basking lamp at one end, on a dimming thermostat with the probe just above the substrate, shining onto natural slate or flat rock that stores heat. VCA describes the same goal as a cage temperature in the mid-80s°F (about 30°C) and lists under-tank heaters and heat tape as options. Whichever you use, run it through a thermostat and check both ends daily with digital thermometers, because thermostats drift.

At night, VCA says geckos tolerate drops to 70°F (21°C), and the RSPCA says to switch the heat off unless the room goes below 64°F (18°C). Below that, use a heat mat under half of a glass vivarium (the probe directly on the mat, set at 86°F/30°C) or a ceramic heater set at 64–68°F (18–20°C), which heats without giving light.

Vivarium size, hides and substrate

The RSPCA’s 24 × 16 × 12 in (60 × 40 × 30 cm) is a minimum for one adult, and it says to go as large as possible. ReptiFiles, a widely used hobbyist care reference, recommends at least 36 × 18 × 18 in (about 50 gal) with 4.5 sq ft of floor space, and rates 4 × 2 × 2 ft as best. For this ground-dweller, floor area matters more than height.

Put hides at both ends so the gecko never has to choose between feeling secure and being the right temperature. Add one more with a waterproof base and damp moss: this humid hide is where it softens old skin before shedding. Spray the moss every few days (RSPCA). VCA suggests sphagnum moss, cypress mulch or vermiculite.

Substrate is where advice varies most. For a healthy adult in a well-run vivarium, the RSPCA accepts a 50/50 mix of organic soil and children’s play sand or reptile sand, which lets the gecko dig. Keep young geckos on non-loose flooring such as slate, clay that sets hard, reptile carpet or paper until they are clearly thriving. VCA rules out coarse sand entirely. The RSPCA treats impaction as a sign of an underlying problem, such as low temperatures, dehydration or vitamin deficiency, so a gecko that is swallowing substrate needs a vet check, not just a new floor.

Feeding and supplements

The RSPCA says to feed juveniles daily and adults every other day. VCA’s schedule is slightly lighter: juveniles every 1–2 days, adults 2–3 times a week. Weigh the gecko regularly and adjust. Make crickets the staple and use waxworms only as treats because of their fat content.

Gut-load the insects for 24–48 hours with a formulated gut-loading diet or greens such as turnip greens, collards and carrot tops. Dust them with a vitamin and calcium powder just before feeding (RSPCA; VCA), and keep a small dish of plain calcium in the vivarium. With UVB in place, the gecko needs little extra vitamin D3, so follow the label rather than dusting heavily (RSPCA).

The tail is the gecko’s fat store. A thick tail means a well-fed gecko, and a thinning one is the earliest sign that something is wrong (RSPCA).

Gotchas

• Grabbing the tail. Leopard geckos drop their tails under pressure. The tail grows back, but losing it means rebuilding fat stores, which is a real health cost (RSPCA). Scoop the gecko up with both hands under its body instead.
• Crickets left overnight. Uneaten insects bite resting geckos. Remove them after each feed (RSPCA).
• Infertile eggs. Adult females can produce eggs without a male. Without a nest box of moist soil or soil and sand, a female can become egg-bound (RSPCA).
• Stuck shed on toes. Skin left around the toes can cut off blood supply and cost the gecko its toes. Fix the humid hide rather than peeling the skin off (RSPCA).
• Lamp too close. Keep heat lamps at least 6 in (15 cm) from where the gecko can climb, and never rest a dome lamp on plastic, which can melt (VCA).

Avoid

• Any heat source without a thermostat
• Hot rocks, which create burning hot spots (VCA)
• Calci-sand, beech chips, corn cob, crushed walnut shell, coarse sand and builders’ sand (RSPCA; VCA)
• Housing two males together, or any pair without close watching (VCA)
• Wild-caught insects, and waxworms as a staple
• Handling sessions longer than 10–15 minutes, which let the gecko’s core temperature drop (RSPCA)

Signs to see a vet

Get urgent help for muscle twitching, swollen legs or a soft or bent jaw (signs of metabolic bone disease), a swollen belly with visible eggs and no laying, stuck shed around the eyes or toes, or abnormal droppings or constipation with weight loss (RSPCA).